LML Star Stella 200cc 4T Tutorial Frizione / Clutch Tutorial


the first thing to do is to
drain
the oil from engine
to do this I will use
a Key from seventeen to open the oil cap
and a plastic basin to collect the oil
this is a good idea to
the engine is hot so that the oil drains better
the oil cap is in this point here
here
so I put my bowl
unscrew
hot oil will be down very easily, being very
liquid
attention to not lose the cap seal
cap and seal these here we put them aside
to facilitate maybe
…just a moment, cause my hands are all dirty of oil…
to facilitate maybe you can also
unscrew
the filler cap to allow
oil to flow better
this also removed
and we wait a while ‘as long as the engine is not completely empty
while the engine is dripping oil we can get across
and begin to remove the spare tire … our goal is to remove
the drum of the rear wheel
However, for easy access to this area
rear
we will need to remove a bit ‘of things
from here
to remove the spare tire I avail myself of a ratchet wrench
size 13
this bike, for example, has the splash cover
… on the rear wheel… on the spare wheel
but not all have it , therefore…
here could be simply
a nut
unhook the alarm
and free the nuts
one
two
remove little washers
and with
caution
remove the spare wheel
the alarm
I can for simplicity
tie back with his belt
ok so it will not hinder
pull the cap
under the cap straighten the cotter pin
straighten the stems of the split pin
with the help of a wrench
and extract
the stop nut
this nut, that is here below, is very hard to remove
for which I have developed a very special technique
I will use a … um …
a key
with a lever long enough, in this case I have my wrench which is a key
very cheap
so I can also
be not afraid of straining
hum
the
dice 24
the technique is as follows
I climb
on the bike
in this way
with the left foot
hit the brake and
leaning from the back of the bike
I shot drag decise enough
is said
kamasutra motorcycle
to lift the wheel, I
I will use this crick
I’m going to put on the rear frame and the lift
many also use another point
of
lifting
that is this … that is the pivot
lower
um … that is support in the part …
underside of the holder that
holds the damper so
the bike from here … is the same …
I frankly
I think it is more comfortable this
I see the bike begins to rise
is raised … perfect … at this point we can
start to take out
the wheel
remove some tools
is
big washer that I put aside
and I take off the back wheel
with the whole hub
ha
finally revealing something really interesting
So now I have to remove the rear brake shoes
LML 200 of these are very
easy, in my opinion, to remove
compared with Vespa’s ones, because just grab this way
and take off
here they are
at this point screwdriver to unscrew
one
two
three screws
and remove this little guard shield
behind the shield it may be pinched a O-ring, however here the o-rings ar three … one two
three of these … we put them aside
at this point we can do is
loosen the brake
loosen the clutch, indeed remove just the brake cable
remove the wire and the clutch
open
and open the engine
well, meanwhile you see that the engine is still
losing a few drops
and we proceed to remove the
Clutch wire
to remove the wire clutch must release this spring and
so that
this spring is held by this
little plate with this
with this nut … um … so I have however to remove the
nuts … maybe it is better remove it immediately
ok
voila
it had to be removed however
and then here, with great patience,
I take a key of seven and one of eight
and I open
and I open this lock
open; at this point
the wire can safely be remove completely
instead regarding
instead regarding
the rear brake
is really simple
just a 13 key
here it is
just a key … let’s say
suffice two keys 13
if one did things from the correct side
we go on the other side
Well we are on the other side
it’s enough
… As I said before …
really be from the right side
to loosen
this nut
and free our brake
no need to remove the air filter
these two screws hold, as well as the cover is closed, also the air filter, for which …
moves slightly
uh … no
then in this case
we have to go across the
motion
to
loosen
this piece … this is the piece that is holding me steady
uh … is holding the filter
whereby this collector
provider and loosen this clamp and release the manifold from the carburettor
ok let’s see …
… If one-handed operation is easy to do
mah … you …
we did it
ok so we dropped
collector … collector from the carburetor
ok let’s go back to the
ok now
hopefully …
hmmm … no
mistake
there is still a screw that keeps him
and is…
and it is, and is, and is …
I think
ok
and that the screw
this down here
then the key 10 to the tube and lift up … then …
now
finally, our
filter can be moved
and move in a much more comfortable position
then to remove the engine block I usually grab it for here
and, gently, with a rubber hammer
do some tap
to pull it out … of course I make sure before you have removed all the screws …
and all nuts
begin
eureka
we did it
this filter
always … very …
nice to take off … and it’s not for nothing …
amid the boxes …
et voila
tadaa
finally here is our clutch
indicted the four springs are located below
and of course there is this buffer
I’d like to change
then
Key 10
of course not just turn it, so
I have to engage a gear
ok
to engage a gear just turn …
this tree
and, meanwhile, acting on the gearshift knob
ok … we see that open easily
here it is the springs: one, two, three and four
are these four we’re going to change
then speech on the bearings
It was mounted above this bearing
uh … that you can ‘
remove
with very simplicity in this manner
I do not know if you notice, however, the bearing
you see here has the inside wire
with … um … basically the inner ring
in the st …. flush with the outer ring
while the other side of the inner ring
It is much more indented outer ring
(Where’s the camera? Here? Goal? Ok)
I do not know if you notice … on the one hand …
and on the other
um … but
once inserted
care must be taken that
the part with
inner ring that is indented with respect to the outer ring
is the one that by towards the outside of
clutch
that will go mounted
in this … in this manner … so
uh … I recommend … I recommend, when replaced
do not make the mistake of putting
the part flush
so
because the breast will remain
clutch always pressed
this
type of bearing, frankly, I have not been able to find it
But I found
this other type of bearing that is very much like that in practice the
outer diameter
It is equal to the internal diameter also
is equal to that which is not equal to is the height, however, that motiamo
hum
what interests us is basically
external height, that is me, if I go to measure
from here to here and I do it simply with
caliber, I about
me about
let’s see … eight millimeters and 4
maybe I measured even hurt
This here is
eight two … eight two, eight four … but we
more or less for which there … …
this bearing,
the code of which I was not able to
find even catalogs SKF, which is called
“BB1 47 46” and it says SKF,
It may replace with this other bearing, which is always a bearing from the outer diameter 35
inner diameter 17
and a thickness of eight
and SKF is the “16003”
for which this one has no problems … can be fitted in this manner is that in this other manner
as it regards instead the springs …
I want you to compare
this side here we have a spring
the one that gave me problems on the clutch, the one that was making the classic hop
and on this side we have a reinforced spring
we see that it has a good millimeter even a millimeter and a half
more in length, this fact here
I’m going to measure it and is 32 mm, when the service manual of the LML, tells me tells me that the lower limit is 32.6 … but this one …
this here is …
a little ‘difficult to misuare … we’re … not … we are approximately 34 mm
for which
replace these with 4 Short springs
4 springs
4 springs longer
reassembling
spring
spring
spring
spring
plate with the new bearing
go
groped to bite
some thread
this screw
some of this other thread
let’s move to tighten
uniformly
ok … here we are closed … and now I …
replace the cover
ok
forgive the screws
I’ll spare you all the inverse operations:
-Insertion Nuts on prisoners cover;
-Fissaggio Filter (screw + carburetor manifold);
-Serraggio Cover stud nuts (cross);
-Rimontaggio Plate protective jaws;
To replace the rear brake shoes, I hold the two jaws together by their springs
and proceed … er .. that way …
They position the lower jaw and …
the upper jaw
It is a maneuver that unfortunately requires a bit ‘of dexterity … then …
jaws together
I place
the lower one and, holding them pull …
the top one … I can straddle
There is a moment in practice, however, it is very
as simple operation
to tighten the rear brake I usually
I close the adjuster
so potelo then use as tensioner wire
is
I have already taken steps to urge the wire
Key 13
holding the brake down … slightly …
very simply
serro a bit ‘….
is
I pass the thread in this jumper
at this point
I can precede to pull the register
a little ‘… but it is something that must be registered
also on … uh …
even after trying a bit ‘as brakes
as brakes the middle
However a first slap on the standards do almost always
just to … just to make sure …
just to stretch a bit ‘cable
and send …
and send batting
locknut
so … like … uh … I repeat: it is an operation
which should then be repeated
after trying as brakes the means to do this operation …
I used a key 11
remount now
the rear wheel
very simple … the bike is raised
I proceed to replace the drum
with the wheel … all together …
They position the washer
the dice
and start using the key start to tighten
the gear, in this case, is inserted .. for which I can already give a first narrow
then … the booklet del..ehm … on … workshop service manual does not say anything of LML
But I take the values
They have written to the manual
Vespa to set my wrench
I now here is set .. um …
80
85
Newton meter, about eight pounds, and see if I can …
… Snap the key …
No! Unfortunately is stronger compression … that is stronger
the key …
I can win the compression … ahem … then I do something
Down with the bike
so as to exploit the friction of the wheel
… I removed the tripod …
exploit, now, the friction of the wheel
… and I put a foot on … for …
ah, finally!
I managed to tighten.
At this point, put the cap lock
and the plug
that at this time I do not find, so I’m going to take a new
er really is not a plug, is a inrealtà
forelock
this here is, unfortunately, a bit ‘
massacred by
percent assembling and disassembling
so I bought some ‘new
for example, these are very long
compared to its original
But just cut to length with a hacksaw
and we …
and we have one identical
I go to the place
and with a gripper
with a gripper
bend the stalks
so as to create a system
anti unscrewing
in fact it is designed just for this, this system, for …
to prevent the nut, that holds the rear wheel, unscrewing
and finally
Hood
we finally arrived at the time when we can
refill the engine oil
I have already placed the funnel and I prepared …
and I have prepared a pound a liter of oil
oil is 4 times and has an alcohol content 10W50
17-key …
check … that the oil cap, below, is tight
proceed to fill with oil
then proceed to pour oil into
inside the funnel
occasionally also control the oil level
this package has here a strip that allows the control of the level
now I have put a little more than half a liter
uh … say
in the motor
there is almost one liter
0.85 … 0.90 … for which
I put a little ‘… I wait for it to drop
I put a little ‘…
this is an oil enough liquid even at low temperatures
flowing fast enough
we are almost there
I put 0.8 liters
0.9. This little that remains we keep it for topping up
that cap the package and put it away
and put on the shelf
and finally
We expected that the oil came down
so I can remove the funnel
use the cap to go
to re check the oil level
on the cap there are two notches
this and this
I do not know if you can appreciate, however …
and the level should be half
so I’m careful that the shaft is clean
and I go to
position
so, without screwing,
the pull out
and I see that the level is just above half
so I would say …
do not overdo it
okay level
then re-check after the first
hum
after the first laps
He screwed the cap
Concluding operations: replacement of the spare tire
OK, one final thing
this tub full
oil
exhausted that we pulled out of the engine
please, be disposed
I use to dispose
usually
hum
the ecological center
so just go
with a container
full of oil and say: “I disposed of him please?”
I recommend …
do not throw this stuff
in the gutter in the sink in the toilet
because It is
poisonous for the environment
polluter to die
said this…
said this…
I thank you and greet you.

29 thoughts on “LML Star Stella 200cc 4T Tutorial Frizione / Clutch Tutorial

  1. Ciao, complimenti per il video.HAnno cambiato anche a me le molle, è migliorata di molto, prima slittava , grattava,specie negli scali di marce.Adesso non più anche se ogni tanto mi ricapita. è normale che succeda questa cosa?

  2. Complimenti per il video, lo condivido con molti e piace a tutti. Spiegazione fantastica! chiara e precisa: come deve essere. Padronanza dell'argomento!

  3. Ottimo video solo troppo lungo 39 min sono veramente tanti (infatti io saltavo nelle sequenze del video) , se mi posso permettere io eliminerei le parti ripetitive tipo fai vedere 1 dado da svitare/avvitare e gli altri si capirebbe che cosa è da fare. oppure lo accelleri minimo da 5X a 10X. Comunque bravo mi cambierò le molle anch'io, però metterò quelle che mi ha suggerito il mio amico Mega (Megadella).

  4. Usato questo tutorial. Secondo me per essere completo avrebbe dovuto soffermarsi anche su i componenti che rimangono sul coperchio del carter, cioé il nottolino spingi disco e l'astina di comando dello spingidischi. Inoltre si consiglia di sostituire i 2 anellini in gomma paraolio sull' asse comando spingidisco. Anche la guarnizione in carta del carter andrebbe cambiata per sicurezza ed evitare perdite.

  5. Ciao. Io ho fatto il tagliando ieri alla mia star 150 4T. Ho usato l'olio 20W 50 come indicato sul tappo del serbatoio. Prima andava benissimo, da quando ho fatto il cambio d'olio ha iniziato a fare parecchio fumo ad alti giri e poi ha iniziato a darmi dei vuoti sempre ad alti giri. Ho smontato la candela che era nuova ed è tutta nera quindi deve essere entrato dell'olio nel cilindro. Non capisco il motivo perchè prima funzionava perfettamente. Hai qualche consiglio da darmi? Grazie

  6. Can you show how to clean the exhaust or how to install it back inside the hole made for the exhaust in the engine. Because i once took it out for removing the rust and i find it very difficult to put it back in the engine exhaust hole. Do we need to screw it inside the hole or just tighten the knots on the clamp will do?

  7. ciao
    Mi chiedo che cosa sono i requisiti per lavorare in officine meccaniche?
    È necessario disporre di formazione o semplicemente avere esperienza?
    Io sono un meccanico e voglio andare in Italia, cercare le mie radici e la famiglia

  8. ciao, ottimo video! per la sostituzione degli oring dell'alberino comando frizione, è possibile farlo senza smontare il coperchio cioè sfilando l'alberino da sotto? o è fissato da dentro?

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